Platinum vs. Gold

[PatagoniaDan]

Traditionally, platinum Rolexes have commanded a hefty premium over full gold. Based upon current spot prices and trends over the past decade, this approach deserves some review.

I do understand that platinum as a mineral is more rare - but in terms of trading value I was surprised to learn that platinum is trading significantly below gold, and has been for some time. I had started the process of searching for a platinum piece due to its positioning as the apex of PM pieces but am curious to hear what you guys think about this. Thoughts?

[Incroyable12]

The cost of manufacturing platinum pieces are usually significantly more than gold as it requires a completely different set of tools and equipment. Many jewelers are also reluctant to work with it because it's finicky and only melts at extremely high temperatures so it uses a different gas.

[Mystro]

Cost of material either way means nothing. It’s all about perception of value and the end look in what a watch will really cost.

[HogwldFLTR]

Not to mention there are density differences so it takes a greater weight of Platinum to make a watch. Also 18K gold is only 75% gold.

[alphadweller]

Platinum has traditionally been considered more noble than gold in the jewelry world.

[Raddoc1]

Even though platinum spot prices are less than Gold spot price, it does not translate in the jewelry world. As others have said, it is more difficult to work with. The premiums on platinum are much higher than gold likely for that reason.

[openone]

Platinum is status material

[waterking]

People love saying "platinum"...it is less offensive than saying GOLD....it has a tendency to sound like something very rare but still quietly unoffensive.

[Cambo]

I love my gold pieces, but can’t wait to get my hands on a platinum beauty!

[PatagoniaDan]

Originally Posted by Incroyable12

The cost of manufacturing platinum pieces are usually significantly more than gold as it requires a completely different set of tools and equipment. Many jewelers are also reluctant to work with it because it's finicky and only melts at extremely high temperatures so it uses a different gas.

This is the type of objective information I was looking for - thank you. I care less about perceived status if that makes sense - and more about what substantiates the premium. Also thank you to the poster above that added food for thought in regards to density.

[Incroyable12]

Rolex uses 950 platinum so it's 95% pure plus the density is such that it requires almost 30% more material than the equivalent item in gold.

I believe that machining and working with platinum also wears out tools much faster than gold because of the nature of the material.

There was a brief period in the early 2000s when platinum spot prices were around $2000.

[GB-man]

My preference for watch metals is titanium lol

[amanbra]

Originally Posted by Incroyable12

Rolex uses 950 platinum so it's 95% pure plus the density is such that it requires almost 30% more material than the equivalent item in gold.

I believe that machining and working with platinum also wears out tools much faster than gold because of the nature of the material.

There was a brief period in the early 2000s when platinum spot prices were around $2000.

It’s a bit more nuanced then that. So platinum is denser right? So from a weight perspective to the given volume they use for the watch you’re getting a fair bit more.

Secondly it’s way way harder on the tooling to manufacture than gold.


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[GreatHarry]

Originally Posted by Incroyable12

The cost of manufacturing platinum pieces are usually significantly more than gold as it requires a completely different set of tools and equipment. Many jewelers are also reluctant to work with it because it's finicky and only melts at extremely high temperatures so it uses a different gas.

I'm not sure that the above statement is entirely true.
From the Mohs scale, Platinum is 4.0 - 4.5.
Gold is 2.5 - 3.0.
Titanium is 6.0.

Comparing Platinum with 904L SUS, tensile strength of Pt is 125-165MPa.
904L tensile strength is 490MPa.

Melting points of the metals.
Platinum, 2041K (1,768'C)
18k Gold, 1337K (1064'C)
904L, 1573-1663K (1,300-1,390'C)

This thing about Platinum being a hard metal to machine etc. is not true. SUS is as difficult if not more so, as it has a tendency to tear, if cutting speeds are not correct, tooling is dull, etc.

[Incroyable12]

Originally Posted by GreatHarry

I'm not sure that the above statement is entirely true.
From the Mohs scale, Platinum is 4.0 - 4.5.
Gold is 2.5 - 3.0.
Titanium is 6.0.

Comparing Platinum with 904L SUS, tensile strength of Pt is 125-165MPa.
904L tensile strength is 490MPa.

Melting points of the metals.
Platinum, 2041K (1,768'C)
18k Gold, 1337K (1064'C)
904L, 1573-1663K (1,300-1,390'C)

This thing about Platinum being a hard metal to machine etc. is not true. SUS is as difficult if not more so, as it has a tendency to tear, if cutting speeds are not correct, tooling is dull, etc.

I've read on jewelry forums that platinum is a very strange metal to work with since it's sort of "liquid" and becomes sticky. Apparently it gums up the machines and causes the edges to break off.

That's also one of the reasons it doesn't lose metal when it becomes scratched or dented.

https://orchid.ganoksin.com/t/turnin...atinum/33109/2

https://www.ganoksin.com/article/pla...ting-stamping/

[GreatHarry]

Originally Posted by Incroyable12

I've read on jewelry forums that platinum is a very strange metal to work with since it's sort of "liquid" and becomes sticky. Apparently it gums up the machines and causes the edges to break off.

That's also one of the reasons it doesn't lose metal when it becomes scratched or dented.

https://orchid.ganoksin.com/t/turnin...atinum/33109/2

https://www.ganoksin.com/article/pla...ting-stamping/

Thanks for the info', Incroyable12.
I've never worked with Pt, in fact I've only tried a Pt DD one time in the Rolex boutique.
The guy describing the machining properties of Pt talks about it becoming sticky and welding itself to the tool tip.
Copper does something similar.

[HideMyWalletPlease]

I am not a fan of platinum. The value of gold goes back to ancient times.

[Tools]

The metal the watch is made of is seldom the driver for final pricing.

If Rolex only made a handful of plastic watches, they would likely be the most expensive in the catalog.

[csaltphoto]

Originally Posted by Tools

The metal the watch is made of is seldom the driver for final pricing.

If Rolex only made a handful of plastic watches, they would likely be the most expensive in the catalog.

This. The platinum or gold value in most Rolex PM models is around 7-9K US. The value of the 904L though is pennies. So the material doesn't have a lot to do with the price. Platinum Rolexes are just marketed and considered the top of the line; the most exclusive (aside from off-catalogue models).

Or as another poster once said, "Here's a lump of platinum. Make a Rolex."

[PatagoniaDan]

Thank you for all the responses. I reached out to a jeweler friend who informed me it’s about 20% more in cost to work with, but it’s also a softer metal. Based upon more research I am going to veer off course for now and put myself on the list for a rose gold piece instead. Seems like the positioning of platinum is more around perception than substance. No pun.

[George58]

Originally Posted by Tools

The metal the watch is made of is seldom the driver for final pricing.

If Rolex only made a handful of plastic watches, they would likely be the most expensive in the catalog.

[Vishy26]

I would prefer platinum to gold. The problem is the weight. Even a 36mm Platinum DD is 230 grams. That’s just too heavy and impractical as a daily wear. Reason why I went with white gold.