Is there a Sub sweet spot?

[AllGoldRollie]

I'm seeking advice from experienced Rolex owners to purchase a nice everyday-wear, workhorse tool watch. I've decided to get a steel, black dial, no date Submariner. I'm looking to spend up to 15k. This will be my third major watch purchase, so I have some purchasing experience. I generally baby my watches, and I work indoors in a clean studio. My everyday activities are not highly physical, but I do want to be able to wear it on excursions on vacations without having to worry.

I have two main criteria: fit (the right size for my wrist) and function (it will run properly for many years). If I could have a third point of criteria, it would be value (its worth will increase over time, even if it is only a tiny amount). My main issue is that my wrists are slender (6.25"), which makes finding the right watch a challenge. Many modern watches (42mm or 43mm in size) are nearly overwhelming, and many vintage watches (around 36mm in size) are underwhelming.

Is there a model of Submariner with a size around 38-39mm, maybe 40mm (likely be a good fit for my wrists) that also has modern internal and external upgraded technology, making it a dependable everyday-wear watch? I want it to hold up mechanically without any out-of-the-ordinary malfunctions. Because of this, I'm not looking to buy a very dated model. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. I appreciate any help you can provide.

[1665fan]

U lost me at 38-39mm sub……….

[AllGoldRollie]

Originally Posted by 1665fan

U lost me at 38-39mm sub……….

Then I guess you missed the 40mm part.

[Bazil]

Only Submariner ?
Is it worth exploring different models ?
Have you considered GMT ?

[Chewbacca]

BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT
Manufacture Calibre MT5402 (COSC)
39 mm steel case
Steel bracelet

This is your watch. Or an older 39mm Submariner.

[karleone]

The current ceramic Sub 124060 is 41mm. The previous gen 114060 is 40mm but with a very bulky case. The older 14060M / 14060 / 5513 are 40mm and much slimmer case profile (lugs and crownguards) that will suit much better for smaller wrists but in the same time you loose all the benefits of the modern ones (ceramic bezel, solid end links, modern clasp, solid links on bracelet).

[karleone]

Originally Posted by Chewbacca

BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT
Manufacture Calibre MT5402 (COSC)
39 mm steel case
Steel bracelet

This is your watch. Or an older 39mm Submariner.

Very good alternative

[Chewbacca]

Originally Posted by karleone

The current ceramic Sub 124060 is 41mm. The previous gen 114060 is 40mm but with a very bulky case. The older 14060M / 14060 / 5513 are 40mm and much slimmer case profile (lugs and crownguards) that will suit much better for smaller wrists but in the same time you loose all the benefits of the modern ones (ceramic bezel, solid end links, modern clasp, solid links on bracelet).

The older Subs are ~38.75 - 39.15mm I believe. Sub date are 40mm

[mquarter]

Can’t go wrong with a 14060M

[RolexPD]

Go to an AD and try on a new Submariner. They should have display models.

[AllGoldRollie]

Originally Posted by karleone

The current ceramic Sub 124060 is 41mm. The previous gen 114060 is 40mm but with a very bulky case. The older 14060M / 14060 / 5513 are 40mm and much slimmer case profile (lugs and crownguards) that will suit much better for smaller wrists but in the same time you loose all the benefits of the modern ones (ceramic bezel, solid end links, modern clasp, solid links on bracelet).

Good points here. I am leaning toward the 14060M. Thanks.

[AllGoldRollie]

Originally Posted by mquarter

Can’t go wrong with a 14060M

I agree. I'll be looking into this reference. Thanks.

[AllGoldRollie]

Originally Posted by Chewbacca

BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT
Manufacture Calibre MT5402 (COSC)
39 mm steel case
Steel bracelet

This is your watch. Or an older 39mm Submariner.

That is a nice watch, but I don't think that's my watch. I'm looking into 14060Ms

[AllGoldRollie]

Originally Posted by Bazil

Only Submariner ?
Is it worth exploring different models ?
Have you considered GMT ?

I've looked at many other watches and for now I'm set on Sub.

[bp1000]

14060M - agreed
All 5 digits definitely feel smaller on wrist.

BB58

If you want a submariner that fits your wrist correctly, look at the Tudor Sub, ref: 75090

Its 36mm.

[faimag]

+1 for the 14060.

[Harry-57]

My wrist is 25mm bigger than yous and oval. I can wear a Sky Dweller and an Explorer II Polar comfortably. I can wear 45mm for some watches and I've tried on one 48mm watch which to my surprise, fitted perfectly. It really depends on the case and lug design and what you consider to be a good fit.

There are some really nice modern retro El Primeros recently launched in the 38mm area which wear just a bit on the small side for me but might suit you very well. Omega also do a nice Aqua Terra 38mm date in a variety of dial colours which at face value give the OP a good run for its money.

As to reliability, that's difficult to pin down. The last iteration of the Sub/Sub Date was 40mm (with fat lugs which some didn't get on with) and based on the 31 series movement which is smooth in operation, silent and has a good reputation for longevity and reliability. Two of my 31 based Rolex watches, one a Sub Date, have failed in warranty. The latest 41mm Sub has the newer 32 series movement. Compared to the 31 it is gritty and noisy. It is also gaining a reputation for being unreliable.

[huba01]

14060

[joa]

the black Rolex sub is the best watch ever made, can't go wrong with it

OP, both 14060M and 114060 should be fine choices, i am pretty sure the 40mm would fit perfectly as well

[Phlippe]

As an original owner of a Tudor 75090 Submariner who wore it daily for 29 years the closest watch in current line is the Rolex Yachtmast 37mm Rhodium face with the platinum basel. The watch that share the Tudor tool watch DNA of the 75090 is the current Tudor FXD. As a diving watch it tops all. I have 6 3/8” wrist and for the longest time I believed I could only wear mid size watches. Now I enjoy mixing sizes up depending on the purpose. I prefer the new 41mm Rolex sub over the old Maxi case 40mm version. The current is much easier to see in the water. Though the Tudor FXD rules them all if you can get one. The other watch under appreciated is the black bay 58 925 silver. It glows on the inside and softly pertinas on the outside. It would be even better if Tudor made a oyster bracket out of 925 silver. Until that happens, the FXD is the king of Kool 😎

[2loaded]

You cannot beat the modern 124060 at 40.5mm.

[Old Expat Beast]

I let the Rolex Service Centre have their wicked way with a late-model 5513 and it turned out pretty nice...service dial, hands and crown but looking much as it did when new apart from the "swiss" dial text right at the bottom. Fully WR and runs perfectly, with acrylic crystal and bright lume.

[travisb]

Give the 124060 a look. The new proportions make it wear more streamlined than the previous model and gives you all the newest features.

[Gerry62]

16610

For many years he was the "Submariner" most iconic and desired . To see and evaluate

[Heady Topper]

That 5 digit can opener clasp on a 6.25 wrist is gonna look huge.

I agree the BB58, especially on a Forstner, would be perfect for you.

[AG23]

Originally Posted by Old Expat Beast

I let the Rolex Service Centre have their wicked way with a late-model 5513 and it turned out pretty nice...service dial, hands and crown but looking much as it did when new apart from the "swiss" dial text right at the bottom. Fully WR and runs perfectly, with acrylic crystal and bright lume.

That is a great looking watch

[1William]

I get the want a Rolex but size and wear are going to be an issue. Go to an AD and try on exhibition models and see how they fit. The Explorer in 36 mm is a remake of a classic and will be a strap monster should you desire. I am a huge fan of Tudor and as others have said the Black Bay 58 is going to wear and look great on you. Tudor also does a great job with straps and NATO's as well as some very nice bracelets from aftermarket companies. For the 15k you have to spend you could get a couple of BB 58's and an Omega Speedmaster Reduced and have enough left over to go on a decent vacation. Go try the Tudors on and see. Good luck and let us know what you find out and decide.

[spellmanski]

BB58 is perfect for what you just described.

[AF_Rob]

Originally Posted by AllGoldRollie

That is a nice watch, but I don't think that's my watch. I'm looking into 14060Ms

Chewy has a point.

You and I have the same wrist size and I own both. Case profile, they are virtually identical.

If you haven’t done so, I would encourage you to try one on.

In terms of value in this market, dollar for dollar, I’d go Tudor.

Stylistically, the Tudor picks up where the Rolex leaves off, IMO.

Emotion and connection matter, I get it. Just being objective. Good luck!




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[PepsiBezel]

Don’t shy away from the 124060. With the glide lock and less-boxy lugs than it’s predecessor, it fits great on slim wrists.

The five-digit models, like the 14060, may be smaller, but the bracelets do not always sit as well on slim wrists.