Finally figured out Explorer bracelet taper!

[dannyp]

It finally hit me today: The reason for the proportions/bracelet taper on the 124270, as well as the decision to make the proportions/shape/lugs different from the DJ it used to share a case with. Viewed from most angles, this watch has a more angular appearance than the other 36mm pieces.

What I see is Rolex's attempt to capture the silhouette of the very in-vogue integrated bracelet watches. AP/PP/VC/GP integrated bracelet sports watches all have significantly greater lug and bracelet taper than watches like the Date Just.

While the Explorer is every bit classic Rolex, I think it captures just enough of those lines to be on trend for today without reviving the OQ-type actual integrated bracelet design.

[inadeje]

Interesting assessment, you could be right.

[Watchsprings]

Oh no, was I not supposed to put it on a leather strap!

[StillTrying]

I 100% agree with you. The only Rolex I’ve owned that I’ve thought had an integrated look.

[Emery]

As a RO owner, I can’t say I agree with the integrated silhouette bit.

But as someone with small wrists, I’m eternally grateful for both the 36mm case width and the 19/14 bracelet :D

[dannyp]

Originally Posted by Emery

As a RO owner, I can’t say I agree with the integrated silhouette bit.

But as someone with small wrists, I’m eternally grateful for both the 36mm case width and the 19/14 bracelet :D

Well, you happen to have the integrated bracelet watch... And nothing is as angular as the RO. More in line with the VC OS or Laureato. And definitely more of an "inspired by" as opposed to a genuine attempt at an integrated bracelet design. At least IMO.

[dannyp]

Originally Posted by Watchsprings

Oh no, was I not supposed to put it on a leather strap!

Many an integrated bracelet watch has had a successful leather strap version .

However I do wonder if this is why some have had a more difficult time finding the right leather strap for the 124270?

[OrangeSport]

If they want an integrated look they should look back...

[dannyp]

Originally Posted by OrangeSport

If they want an integrated look they should look back...

While I don't ever see Rolex adopting that style for the Explorer, I am a little surprised that this one never made a comeback.

With the Explorer I see more of a desire to capture some of the lines and silhouette of the integrated bracelet watches, given the design popularity, without actually creating one.

[jkumar2324]

Do you feel the same about the new sub with the same 5mm of taper (albeit starting at 21mm instead of 19)?

[dannyp]

Originally Posted by jkumar2324

Do you feel the same about the new sub with the same 5mm of taper (albeit starting at 21mm instead of 19)?

No, for two reasons:

1. Sub lugs are just so much thicker that the taper doesn't "flow" from the case to the bracelet (the way integrated bracelet watches do by definition).

2. Never seen an integrated bracelet watch well executed with a dive bezel. Doesn't mean nobody has tried, nor that it's impossible, but never seen it really work and maintain the silhouette.

[Tools]

Originally Posted by dannyp

. . .
What I see is Rolex's attempt to capture the silhouette of the very in-vogue integrated bracelet watches. AP/PP/VC/GP integrated bracelet sports watches all have significantly greater lug and bracelet taper than watches like the Date Just.

. . .

No, they're not.

The newer bracelets have an additional removable link. Since all of the removable links are the same, the fewer links left on the permanent set need a sharper angle to get down to the same width as those removables.

[dannyp]

Originally Posted by Tools

No, they're not.

The newer bracelets have an additional removable link. Since all of the removable links are the same, the fewer links left on the permanent set need a sharper angle to get down to the same width as those removables.

Sure, the change you describe does require more sharply angled permanent links, but it doesn't dictate the degree of overall taper. I'm referring to the decision to taper the lugs to 19mm and the end links to 14 in the first place. Rolex could have followed tradition and used the same case as the DJ (now OP36, too), with its 20mm lugs and 4mm taper.

This greater overall taper, along with what appear to be sharper, more angular lines throughout, are what led me to this conclusion.

[MRBolton]

My Sub41 bracelet feels more integrated than my current model Explorer 1 bracelet.

The taper really is super aggressive. I have trouble also getting the clasp to have a nicely centered fit.