Does anyone have experience selling a 16XX Datejust?

[yaslink]

I'm about to take a dive into the world of vintage rolex and I thought vintage datejust is a good place to start but I'm worried about having to take a loss if I fall out of love with wearing a vintage datejust.

If my model is in a decent condition with no papers or box. I have my eye on a particular model 1603 with matte blue sigma dial on chrono24 with a dealer with 2 stores in a premium area japan (mentioning this cause some people say "buy the seller", i imagine it would be hard to run a business selling fake datejusts to pay off expensive rent. How hard would it be to sell it out on chrono24. Does anyone have experience doing this?

My friends mentioned it could be valueless if its a fake rolex or if its a frankenwatch. Common sense tells me the 16XX datejusts that are basic (white/black/blue dial in an uninteresting combination) aren't a particularly worthy area for fakes to exist since they are not particularly sought after in the first place compared. And frankenwatches shouldn't be particularly hard to sell since again they aren't worth that much in the first place so most people wouldn't put great effort to verifying if its an frankenwatch or not as long as the patina matches evenly. This of course is my unexperienced brain trying to rack my head around this, hoping someone could share some experience.

[Tools]

Buy a luxury watch the same way you buy any other expensive jewelry.

If you "fall out of love" and decide to sell at a loss, that's one of the realities of life.

It is a false premise that everybody gets their money back.

[Dan S]

I have sold plenty of 16XX DJs, and I didn't find them terribly hard to sell. I generally list watches privately on forums and IG, not C24. Obviously they are easier to sell if they are in good condition and you price the watch fairly. Selling on a commercial platform has its advantages, but you have to accept the fees. This is no different from selling any watch, really, but it helps to have some experience as a seller so that people are more likely to trust you.

I think it goes without saying that you want to avoid watches in poor condition, fake watches, or watches with aftermarket parts. But TBH, I don't know why you'd want to own that type of watch anyway. Even a watch with authentic non-original (service) parts becomes a bit harder to sell. So do your research.

If you buy a watch from a retail store, you will certainly pay a premium, so you would expect to take a significant loss upon resale.

Blue (and even black) dials bring a significant premium, especially if they are original. However, it is pretty rare to find an original 16XX blue dial in good condition, so you will want to check carefully.

[Nick9]

You’ll find a lot of four-digit vintage Rolexes where the dials/bezels have been replaced — it was common for jewellers to offer a different look when the watches were sold, or at service, or even if the customer just dropped in.

For the most part, these swaps don’t affect value much, as long as the dial or bezel is authentic Rolex. Condition is of course most important, but if you find one you like, don’t hesitate. These are great looking watches, easy to get serviced, and easy to enjoy.

[dhknola]

I won't touch one of these again unless they are dirt cheap. Should be easy to sell but people are not 'clamoring' for these.

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by dhknola

I won't touch one of these again unless they are dirt cheap. Should be easy to sell but people are not 'clamoring' for these.

Values have certainly been a roller coaster in recent years and people who bought at an unlucky time probably found themselves upside down. In 2020 and 2021, it seemed like vintage DJs were skyrocketing and approaching $5k regularly, as buyers who missed out on vintage sport models tried to find a way into the market. I think that the 1990s 5-digit neo-vintage sport models were also part of that trend.

But then both of those categories took the biggest hit in demand and value during the 2022 downswing. However, it seems to me that the bottom was in on the 4-digit DJs (and 160XX DJs) earlier this year. Prices are starting to creep up again in auctions. At first I was skeptical, but I've seen enough over the last month that I'm convinced it's a real trend. The prices of neo-vintage (1990s 5-digit models) are still low across the board in auctions IMO. It's quite depressing to see 1990s Subs regularly selling for less than I paid for one in a 2021 auction, when at the time I felt I got a pretty good deal.

With respect to vintage DJs, I think they are the most likely category that you CAN actually sometimes find dirt cheap. They are so common, that you will run across them pretty often at estate sales, pawn shops, or even thrift stores if you know what you're looking at. Of course, the vast majority that you find are fakes, but this means that sometimes an estate sale or second-hand store will sell a real one at the price of a fake. I have a lot of respect for people who make the effort to treasure hunt, but it's not really for me.

[Nick9]

My experience is that these are relatively easy to sell as long as the asking price is reasonable. Interesting dials get a premium.

Prices have climbed steadily for the past five years or so. I agree with Dan insofar as they have now levelled off — maybe even declined a little.

But typically, these are still a good buy. Thankfully, they were never part of the craziness around vintage Subs and GMTs, and so never had wild value/price fluctuations.

At the end of the day, they are great entry level Rolexes. Totally wearable solid watches.

[indianmachine]

Whether you take a loss or not will depend on the overall watch market and the condition of your piece. The former no one knows, the latter you can control but will likely pay a premium for today.

I assume I'll take a loss on the pieces I buy and that loss is a cost of ownership. E.g. if you buy a $5k loss and take a 20% loss on it over 3 years, that's like paying $30/mo to own a datejust (excluding opportunity cost of course), which you have to decide if you're comfortable or not with.

And you can get some gravy too if the market rises.

[TuRo]

All about price - if it's a std silver, white, champers batton and you buy at £3k (£3.5k with a 62510h) you'll have no problem selling it.

If however you sink say £5k on one of those, you'll be upside down for years ! - this is notwithstanding of course the interesting coloured/finish/material/boiler gauge dial versions which command higher prices.

[pk552502]

I would go for a 5 digit datejust with either the 3035 or 3135 movement. I see posts about the older movements are getting harder to service and fewer parts available. If you like the look of the 1603 you could look at the 16030 for instance. Just my two cents.