380 end pieces - why some flush others not on top?

[mattg6]

Two 1680 red subs, each attached with 380 end links. The bottom of the end links both fit snug to the watches. But the top have different results. One comes right up the lugs. The other has a gap. Any ideas? The one with the gap is a meters first sub; maybe they’re just differently sized cases and that causes the issue? The original end links for the meters first are “80” (but of course aren’t removable)

[swaini3]

They're just bent and can be adjusted.

[Dan S]

I'd suggest you take a vintage bracelet off of one of your watches and take a close look at the end-links. I think the answer will be immediately obvious.

[Tools]

Looks like the second one has worn tubes, or the wrong/worn spring bars and the end has been squeezed to get it closer to the case.

[rootbeer7]

I thought 280 were the perfect fit for 1680?

[mattg6]

Originally Posted by Dan S

I'd suggest you take a vintage bracelet off of one of your watches and take a close look at the end-links. I think the answer will be immediately obvious.

I wish it were obvious I’m not sure what is off. The same bracelet that is “off” fits perfectly on the other 1680 red pictured. So maybe it’s the spring bars or the pin holes?

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by mattg6

I wish it were obvious I’m not sure what is off. The same bracelet that is “off” fits perfectly on the other 1680 red pictured. So maybe it’s the spring bars or the pin holes?

The same bracelet? Or just two bracelets with 380 endlinks? It doesn't look like the same bracelet to me.

So have you actually looked at the endlinks with the bracelet removed to understand how the endlinks work with the bracelet and spring-bars? Some things actually need to be done in the real world. I realize that you like to ask things on the internet, but not everything can be done virtually. Spend some time adjusting a bracelet, the way we have all done at one time or another, and you will understand.

[TuRo]

I run the open end of the links over thin nosed pliers, that taper, to tease them open - it's a knack takes 5 secs to get a nice fit.... and importantly without any lateral rotation (that can damage model/serial numbers)

[mattg6]

Originally Posted by TuRo

I run the open end of the links over thin nosed pliers, that taper, to tease them open - it's a knack takes 5 secs to get a nice fit.... and importantly without any lateral rotation (that can damage model/serial numbers)

Thanks I used pliers to bend the edges up a bit and that helped. It didn’t ever seem like the bottom side was too tightly pressed against the case but I peeled those back a little too. It’s closer to being right

[subx]

OP: the end links for 'meters first' are not 80 but 280.
anyhoo: has nothing to do with 380 vs 280:
all end links bend down over time and can be pliers up back to normal
just enjoy your vintage timepiece

[ELLimon]

Note of caution I have seen many marred end links from bending using pliers with grooves.

I use plain flat nosed pliers, never mark my end links using them.

[LetMeHearItNow]

These have been my go to for endlinks, some folded links, etc.




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