18038/18238 Links and Other Questions

[0xBA1EE7ED]

Good Morning!

It is looking like I might be picking up my first vintage soon and I have a few questions, I've done some searching but as always came away with more questions than answers.

As some back story, last year I was able to get my first Rolex, a 126710BLNR, new from an AD. I soon discovered that Rolexes have a higher nickel content than any other watch I have worn which has caused flare-ups of my nickel allergy. I tried to live with it through various means, but this has led me down the path of going PM which means vintage.

I am looking at 18038s and 18238s with the hopes of finding one at a reputable dealer with a similar value to my GMT so that I can trade it out directly; a 1987 or 1989 would be ideal. As this is my first vintage I am trying to go into this as prepared as possible.

Now, on to the questions.
First, I have a fairly large wrist and purchased an extra link for my GMT, most of the Day-Dates I have looked at seem to be sized quite small so I will need to purchase 1 if not 2 or 3 links to get the watch up to the correct size for me. I have seen links on eBay but haven't been able to find a dealer that has them listed, I want to be sure I am purchasing genuine parts; What would be the best way to ensure that if I end up buying on eBay or would going to a local AD be the best bet? Can ADs still get links for vintage watches?

Second, Bracelet stretch: How much is too much? Ultimately I'd love something factory tight and unworn but the value would be too high for a close trade with my watch. If I end up buying something thats a bit too stretched, is Rolliworks service the way to go?

Third, Dailying and Service: This would be my daily watch. I know that something in the late 80s/early 90s is still new enough to be dailyed without many issues; I would also most likely send it in for service after buying it unless it was explicitly stated that it had a recent service. Is there anything else I should be prepared for when dailying one of these or should I be prepared for a jaw dropping service cost?

And finally, avoiding fake parts/parts bin rebuilds/over-polished examples: I assume that all of the big dealers are going to be reputable and ensure everything is legitimate. But my knowledge of vintage rolexes isn't an ocean so much as a stream and when I am potentially in a shop looking at watches I won't have the experts here at hand. Is there anything I can look for directly to avoid buying something I shouldn't beyond buying the seller? Are there any dealers that are known to over-polish that I should avoid?

Thank you in advance for all answers and any links that will help! And of course, if anyone has any leads on watches/dealers where they think I might be able to do a direct trade or other words of wisdom, I am all ears!

[interestedwatcher]

With a 2023 126710BLNR I would be looking to trade into a really nice fullset 18238 (the double quickset is great) that is a full set with minimal wear. Or even a 118238 - this would likely take funds on top to get the 6 digit. If you find a model you like in good condition, you can have RSC service it an install a new dial (however I'd only do this if the dial on it is a standard champagne or similar, as you probably can't retain the original.)

Links can be bought from places such as overnightlinks, or at the AD. An AD will charge an obscene amount of money (likely 6 - 700 USD a link).

[0xBA1EE7ED]

Originally Posted by interestedwatcher

With a 2023 126710BLNR I would be looking to trade into a really nice fullset 18238 (the double quickset is great) that is a full set with minimal wear. Or even a 118238 - this would likely take funds on top to get the 6 digit. If you find a model you like in good condition, you can have RSC service it an install a new dial (however I'd only do this if the dial on it is a standard champagne or similar, as you probably can't retain the original.)

Links can be bought from places such as overnightlinks, or at the AD. An AD will charge an obscene amount of money (likely 6 - 700 USD a link).

That was my hope, being able to get into a nice fullset 18238, but it seems like values have dropped on the BLNR recently.
I did a trade/sell value with 2 of the larger dealers with the results being lower than expected. It looks like unless I sell my watch off privately (which I don't know if I am experienced enough to do) I would have to add a bit to get into a nice 18238.
I did look at a very nicely, nearly unworn 18238 but it involved me adding around $4,000. And it was definitely one I'd want to send in for service with how little it was used just to make sure everything is running well.

I do appreciate the shoutout for overnightlinks, didn't know about them!

I will keep looking around and seeing what I can find for a good trade.

[wilsonpepper]

" nearly unworn 18238 but it involved me adding around $4,000"

What was the price of the 18238 ??

[Phrank]

A couple of months ago I might have been interested in that trade.

I had my 18238 Ivory/Silver dial serviced in 2019, it's an A-Serial, so 1999, last of the 5 digits, in superb shape. Bracelet is perfect, no stretch at all. When I purchased it, full set, it had been a safe queen, green sticker still on the back intact, Rolex Tech said case had never been opened when I took it in for its service. My wrist is 7.5 and could move the bracelet probably enough that it might have fit you without any extra links.

But fell in love with the 5 digit Rolex GMT Pepsi 16700 and found one that fit the bill.

The Day-Date is a tank of a watch, don't wear it as much as I'd like, have thought of moving it on a few times, but my son loves it.....

Good luck in your hunt, definitely try to get as late 90's as you can and as you note, make sure the bracelet is in great shape and the dial is perfect.

Here's a pic of my 1999 A-Serial 18238 Rolex Day-Date.

[fivedime]

Bracelet stretch: the intake guidance sheet Rolex provides shows bracelet sag making a full “U” as the guideline for *requiring* replacement. Anything less than that is up to the wearer’s tolerance as to how much is “too much.”

[0xBA1EE7ED]

Originally Posted by wilsonpepper

" nearly unworn 18238 but it involved me adding around $4,000"

What was the price of the 18238 ??

$18.6k, from that you can infer how much I was being offered.

Originally Posted by Phrank

A couple of months ago I might have been interested in that trade.

I had my 18238 Ivory/Silver dial serviced in 2019, it's an A-Serial, so 1999, last of the 5 digits, in superb shape. Bracelet is perfect, no stretch at all. When I purchased it, full set, it had been a safe queen, green sticker still on the back intact, Rolex Tech said case had never been opened when I took it in for its service. My wrist is 7.5 and could move the bracelet probably enough that it might have fit you without any extra links.

But fell in love with the 5 digit Rolex GMT Pepsi 16700 and found one that fit the bill.

The Day-Date is a tank of a watch, don't wear it as much as I'd like, have thought of moving it on a few times, but my son loves it.....

Good luck in your hunt, definitely try to get as late 90's as you can and as you note, make sure the bracelet is in great shape and the dial is perfect.

Here's a pic of my 1999 A-Serial 18238 Rolex Day-Date.

That is a beautiful example! Thank you for the encouragement, I am currently looking at a few with 1 being more early 90s but am keeping my eyes out constantly.

[southtexas]

Links pop up pretty regularly for sale here in the parts/accessories section (and they'll be much cheaper than buying new from AD). Do your homework even buying from sellers here on the forum.

[0xBA1EE7ED]

Am I allowed to post photos of watches I am looking at here for opinions?

[ronricks]

Originally Posted by 0xBA1EE7ED

Am I allowed to post photos of watches I am looking at here for opinions?

Absolutely

[Phrank]

Originally Posted by 0xBA1EE7ED

Am I allowed to post photos of watches I am looking at here for opinions?

Absolutely, this forum has been incredible helping me and many others make the best decision regarding potential purchases.

It's easy to get emotionally attached to a watch you find, and the forum removes the film of excitement from your eyes and provides an objective view. Let alone when the actual reference experts check in....

Just be patient, keep an open mind, and take your time finding the right example of the watch you want - it's going to be with you for a long time.

Good Luck and Good Hunting!

[0xBA1EE7ED]

I will make these separate posts within the thread so I can't confuse them.

This first one I've already shown to Phrank who advised me that the dial has a blemish which isn't good. And we have no photos of the clasp to determine if its original. But other than that it looks good.







$16k

[0xBA1EE7ED]

This one is from Tropical, who I know is respected here.

Again, no photos of the clasp but he says it matches. This is only a single quickset however.









$17,350

[0xBA1EE7ED]

This one is a double quickset. Fullset and unpolished. Looks to be in really good condition from my eyes but I have not heard much about this dealer and it may be out of my trade-price range.









$20,495

[Phrank]

Originally Posted by 0xBA1EE7ED

This one is from Tropical, who I know is respected here.

Again, no photos of the clasp but he says it matches. This is only a single quickset however.

Attachment 1443186

Love the open 6 on this one....

Might help to add prices.

[0xBA1EE7ED]

Originally Posted by Phrank

Love the open 6 on this one....

Might help to add prices.

I like the Open 6 too, and I am not opposed to single. I added prices.

Basically $16k, $17k, $20k in that order.

[0xBA1EE7ED]

Heres another 18038 from a trusted seller here. This one is $15,250. No mention of polishing, clasp is correctly coded.

[hutch300]

I saw that one from Jacek today aka tropicalwatch. Great seller and I like that combo.

[miamiclay]

I expect I would be happy with either of the first two.

If the dial blemish you refer to is the one at :18 on the first watch, I don’t know if it would be visible to the naked eye, and it’s a really handsome and uncommon disc marker dial.

Broadly though, I think a white dial looks better than champagne on these.

[0xBA1EE7ED]

How does this one look for $17k? It does have an engraving on the caseback but I am ok with it.

[0xBA1EE7ED]

Just popped on C24 and found this one. It looks great, seller says its unpolished, it definitely looks like it.
Its listed at $17,000. The only two things that give me pause, the day and date wheels are still very white, I don't think I've seen any of this age this white (1987) and there is a small mark between the bracelet and bezel just near the 7, I can't tell if its dirt, a shadow, or a blemish in the gold.

Thoughts?

[interestedwatcher]

Nice watch. Set is put together, the 1987 booklet is the side profile of a day date - that booklet with the day date is like 1990 or 1991.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[0xBA1EE7ED]

Originally Posted by interestedwatcher

Nice watch. Set is put together, the 1987 booklet is the side profile of a day date - that booklet with the day date is like 1990 or 1991.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good call, thats why I am here!

What do you think of the one in the post just prior to that one (post #20)

[ronricks]

Originally Posted by 0xBA1EE7ED

Good call, thats why I am here!

What do you think of the one in the post just prior to that one (post #20)

I wouldn’t pay close to 17k for that one considering it’s got the engraving and it also has nicks/dents/gouges on inside of lugs. Service is going to set you back $1200 and it’s short two links depending on how big your wrists are.

[interestedwatcher]

Originally Posted by ronricks

I wouldn’t pay close to 17k for that one considering it’s got the engraving and it also has nicks/dents/gouges on inside of lugs. Service is going to set you back $1200 and it’s short two links depending on how big your wrists are.

I think 17 is too much as well for the champagne dial - great condition on the band though.

[0xBA1EE7ED]

Originally Posted by ronricks

I wouldn’t pay close to 17k for that one considering it’s got the engraving and it also has nicks/dents/gouges on inside of lugs. Service is going to set you back $1200 and it’s short two links depending on how big your wrists are.

I must be blind at seeing anything inside the lugs.

Sadly, I will need to add links to anything considering I need 1 more than they came with originally and I haven't even seen that many that are fully linked. With this one I am going to need 3 links, I believe.
I am also factoring in the cost of a service for any of them I go with.

Originally Posted by interestedwatcher

I think 17 is too much as well for the champagne dial - great condition on the band though.

I agree on the bracelet condition, its not perfect but its very very good.


Keeping my eyes open for everything that gets listed.

[0xBA1EE7ED]

This one seems to have just gone up. Its a 1988 at $14,950.

I can't tell if its been polished, the bezel looks a bit soft to me but my eyes aren't as good at this.
What are your thoughts?

[ronricks]

Originally Posted by 0xBA1EE7ED

This one seems to have just gone up. Its a 1988 at $14,950.

I can't tell if its been polished, the bezel looks a bit soft to me but my eyes aren't as good at this.
What are your thoughts?

Attachment 1444231

Attachment 1444232

Attachment 1444233

Its been polished. You will pay a slight premium for an unpolished 18038 or 18238 regardless of dial. To me its not important unless the lugs have been destroyed. Bezel can be recut and will look new.

[0xBA1EE7ED]

Ended up grabbing a 1988 18238 from Tropical. I appreciate all of the help everyone!

[wilsonpepper]

Great score, love this watch too !