♛ Rolex Bezel Cleaning Question...♛

[dlack]

I removed the bezel on my neo-vintage (1981) GMT-Master to clean out the grit on the underside of the bezel ring and insert. I also cleaned the grit off both sides of the separate thin metal ring that's beneath the bezel ring. The grit made rotating the bezel difficult. I used Rodico and a clean cloth to do the job. Success achieved, but still have the following question:

Is it also necessary or recommended that a lubricant be applied to the metal ring or to the underside of the bezel? If so, what type of lubricant would be best e.g. fine powder graphite? silicone grease? something else?

Appreciate hearing from those with experience, particularly a watchmaker. Many thanks

[Heater3000]

Originally Posted by dlack

I removed the bezel on my neo-vintage (1981) GMT-Master to clean out the grit on the underside of the bezel ring and insert. I also cleaned the grit off both sides of the separate thin metal ring that's beneath the bezel ring. The grit made rotating the bezel difficult. I used Rodico and a clean cloth to do the job. Success achieved, but still have the following question:

Is it also necessary or recommended that a lubricant be applied to the metal ring or to the underside of the bezel? If so, what type of lubricant would be best e.g. fine powder graphite? silicone grease? something else?

Appreciate hearing from those with experience, particularly a watchmaker. Many thanks

on my 16710, i don't use any lubricant as i find it attracts dirt..

[Stan Cooper]

Whether it's a four digit friction or five digit click spring reference like the 16700, I don't think lubrication will do anything but attract grit and make turning the bezel more difficult. It's much better to remove the bezel occasionally and clean the bezel and thin metal spring washer, then reassemble.

[0nly5iv3Digits]

OP, what you're referring to is the friction washer. It's a very thin piece of steel. You want to make sure it is "flat" and not bent anywhere. Also, it's important that you re-install the clickspring properly. It fits on top of the friction washer. Finally, make sure to remove the bezel insert and clean the teeth along the inner bezel ring itself. You don't necessarily need to remove the insert for this, although I like to. The small grooves in the teeth often get gummed up with junk..

When pressing the insert back onto the bezel ring, make sure it is seated flush with the lip of the ring. I've found that if it is "recessed" into the ring (even by just a bit), it will provide a bit more resistance than it would otherwise, effectively making the bezel harder to turn. Likely because it is coming into direct contact with either the click-spring or the friction washer.

Rolex does not use any lubrication. I wouldn't either.

[dlack]

Originally Posted by 0nly5iv3Digits

Also, it's important that you re-install the clickspring properly. It fits on top of the friction washer.

The 1981 GMT-Master 16750 did not have a click spring bezel. It used a friction-fitted bezel requiring downward pressure on the bezel for bidirectional rotation.

[0nly5iv3Digits]

Originally Posted by dlack

The 1981 GMT-Master 16750 did not have a click spring bezel. It used a friction-fitted bezel requiring downward pressure on the bezel for bidirectional rotation.

My mistake. Missed that. Saw 16700.

[ned4n6]

For my 1985 GMT II, I used Prolix which is a very effective lubricant AND cleaner for the bezel. It's bio-degradable and have used it for many years on my guns .

Holding the watch vertical, I liberally applied the lubricant at the bezel joint and let the excess flush out the dirt as I rotated the bezel.. It leaves a very thin film of lubricant and did not attract dirt. Wipe the watch with a clean rag and you're all set.